Acne Treatments - All About Salicylic Acid

By itself, in the low concentrations that are available over the counter, salicylic acid isn't very effective in treating acne. However, it's believed to help the skin absorb benzoyl peroxide and other more effective prescription topical acne medications. Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). Beta-hydroxy acids are commonly called "fruit acids" because they're natural substances derived from fruits, sugar, and plants. They're found in many over-the-counter products.

 

Salicylic acid works by exfoliating, which means it removes the top layers of dead skin cells. Salicylic acid loosens the gluelike substances that hold the surface skin cells to each other, allowing the dead skin to peel off. It's also oil soluble and can get into oil-clogged pores. These actions help the skin renew itself faster and reduce the chance for pore blockage and a subsequent acne breakout.

 

The OTC products that contain only salicylic acid are, at best, minimally effective in treating non-inflammatory acne lesions (like blackheads and whiteheads). Salicylic acid doesn't have any effect on sebum production; it just removes the sebum that has reached the surface of the skin and makes your skin feel smoother. That's why salicylic acid is also found in some makeup removal products.

 

Much more powerful salicylic acid preparations are sometimes used by dermatologists and plastic surgeons as acne treatments and for wrinkle removing and skin rejuvenation procedures. The high concentrations are much more effective at clearing up blackheads and whiteheads than the OTC products.

 

As with benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid comes in a host of formulations and is an ingredient in Clearasil, Oxy, Clean and Clear, PanOxyl, and Neutrogena, as well as less expensive generic brands.

 

Salicylic acid is available in concentrations from 0.5 to 2.0 percent, mainly in creams, lotions, pads, washes, cleansers, and astringents (agents that dry oily skin). It's available as a single agent or sometimes in combination with sulfur.

 

Creams, lotions, and pads that contain salicylic acid are more effective than the other options.

As part of their skin-care lines, the same companies that offer benzoyl peroxide products often offer products containing salicylic acid. Sometimes they're packaged together as a "total acne treatment system." When these "systems" contain salicylic acid as well as benzoyl peroxide as their active ingredients, they can work quite effectively to treat your acne.

 

Those expensive mail-order OTC combination "systems" that you see on TV infomercials can't always be trusted or tailored to match your skin. But if you really want to use one, you can buy a much, much cheaper "knockoff" variety at your local drugstore or Wal-Mart. Read the labels!

 

Salicylic acid products are appropriate starter treatments for children who are just beginning to develop mild comedonal acne. When used alone for other types of acne or more advanced acne, don't expect very much from them.

 

As with benzoyl peroxide, you apply a thin layer of salicylic acid to areas of skin affected by acne. If you discover that the salicylic acid isn't working very well, substitute or add a benzoyl peroxide product to your regimen.

 

Dryness of the treated area can be expected and is usually mild. If these products are used with benzoyl peroxide formulations, the dryness and irritation can be more severe, and if the skin is visibly scaly, apply a light non-oily moisturizer.